A Portuguese Tradition Faces a Frozen Future: During the four decades of António de Oliveira Salazar’s dictatorship, cod was the country’s cheapest source of protein. Cod fishing was subsidized by the state. Cod fishermen were revered as national heroes; cod was the staple for good Catholics on Fridays and holy days.
In the past 15 years, strict quotas limiting cod fishing have driven up prices and made cod a luxury for the working class. Many upscale customers, meanwhile, have turned to supermarkets. Mr. Pereira’s business has declined by 50 percent. The move to frozen cod has only made things worse.
